Corona Razor Tooth Folding Saw: $18 Worth Of Awesome

Need to make one piece of wood into many and only have $20 in your pocket? Pick up a Corona Razor Tooth Saw and you’ll have enough left over for a Doublestack at Wendy’s. The best part is you can probably pick one up without having to order online.

Great review Chris & Will !! Like yourself, seen Mark’s (Eat Carbs) and John (Wingman115) reviews on the Corona Razor Tooth Saw after I had picked one up too, I have had it for awhile and it’s solid! I’ve tried other saws and have settled on the Corona Razor Tooth Saw. The Corona is an excellent option when you really want to have a regular bow saw to use, but don’t have that much room to carry it in or on your pack. The Corona with the Kydex sheath option you found will be a great option on a pack! I have guys who come to the course I help with each summer come to use my Corona Razor Tooth Saw instead of other options to construct shelters & process materials.

I have used this same saw, for arboring and personal use for 9 years. The only thing that needs to be understood with each saw, is that there is a maximum sawing range on each saw. The longer the saw, the potential for whiplashing of the tip, or the bunching and wiggling of the saw handle in your hand (even for old hand saws). The actual maximum (and maybe less!) saw range of each saw is 1/2 that of the blade length.

Take a look at Canadian Prepper’s vid with that huge tree trunk wood-eater The Katana (big boys, huge toys!). There was so much whiplash, as he was overcompensating and whiplashing the blade and wiggling the handle. When he finally tasked that tree trunk, that godzilla was in its element and sawing without detriment.

So for the Corona with its 10-12 inch blade (or any other saw …), the maximum limb diameter of 6-8 inches allows 2-3 inches of outside saw range. Smaller limbs and branch diameters then give greater saw range. Using the blade on 1-2 inch diameters you start having a long saw range, but getting back into whiplashing and wiggling. So make these considerations of which saw, Bahco, Gomboy, Silky, Fiskars, Corona … and the wood diameters that you will be cutting in the outback.

The same for the designated teeth (large teeth = green wood, small teeth = dry wood). Kerf teeth spacing (pull chips from the kerf cut, and kerf width (displaced teeth making larger cut line, allows easier sawing, than tiny blade, straight teeth and binding/pinching cut from the cut.

Bahco is a thin blade, medium-small teeth, no kerf teeth displacement, and best at small diameter dry wood. Fiskars (needs redesign) is a thin blade, large teeth, no displacement, and best for small diameter green wood. The Corona has a (modest) thicker blade, large and medium teeth, no displacement, and works best in green wood, and good in dry wood.

Look at each product’s teeth by laying it on its spine. Many old-design saws are 90 degree teeth grind to the blade (old wood hand saws). New teeth designs are angular grinds, whether pull, push, or push-and-pull. Bahco is a diagonal grind. FIskars is moving to an angular grind. Corona is an angular grind. Gomboy is ????. Silky is ?????.

Depending on whether these are a pull grind, a push grind, or a pull-and-push grind, you will have only a single row of diagonal teeth, … or a double row of teeth. Teeth cutting-edge facing backwards (pull), and teeth cutting-edge facing forwards (push) are single row teeth. They look like triangular teeth. The teeth will appear to have a single row of teeth appearing from one side of the blade. Teeth cutting-edges with backwards and forwards grinds are a double row of teeth. You will see a row on the left and right side of the blade edges. They look like diamond or lozenge teeth. A perfect pull-and-push cutting edge will have the center area barren of teeth (as in the Corona) and this allows the chips to be more easily removed from the cut. The other designs move the cut to the sides of the blade and cut, part of the issue of pinching/bunching and binding of the blade in the wood.

The Gomboy looks like a thicker blade, and depending on its teeth size, and grinds, is either a green wood, dry wood, or combo, … and a pull, push, or pull-and-push blade.

The Silky saw and its design also needs to be detailed for its best use.

The best of these options must be taken into consideration of what and who you are going to cut in the woods … dry wood for fire tinder, fire wood, and construction timbers … or green wood for construction, and eventual fire wood.

For me, I have been a Corona pruner (hand saw) and the 6-10 foot lopping saw user for 9 years. Goes through green and dry wood. And the smaller saw, when bushie-prepped onto a wood limb, can also become the same overhead lopping saw in the outback.

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